Pemba Islands Profile

Introduction

Pemba Island lies 80 km north of its neighboring island, Unguja and east of the Tanzania’s city of Tanga. Prominent for its distinct witchcraft and the African occult, Pemba is often visited by people in search for local cures or looking to learn operating witch-doctoring. It is said that people travel from as far as Costa Rica to study the origins of voodoo. Although its reputation for occult healing and spell casting spreads much farther than Pemba, the locals will deny it emphatically if asked. The island in its beauty is quite bewitching enough. The epitome of a tropical paradise, Pemba has green valleys with rice paddies and palm trees and clove plantations that shade the roads. Vistas of the Indian Ocean are pleasant surprises as they are presented through the peaks and depths of Pemba’s hilly terrain.

History

Pemba Island has a very long history much as it’s not as eventful as that of Unguja since it has never been the centre of any ruling empire. Except for the cruelty of Mkama Ndume, who was the local ruler with his headquartering at Pujini, Pemba was always ruled by proxy. The Portuguese had established an administrative centre at Chake Chake but generally their rule was connected to other parts of East Africa.
The Mazruis of Mombasa ruled Pemba for a great period but were overpowered by Sayyid Said, who again ruled Pemba from Unguja. The tendency of Pemba being ruled from Unguja continued from the period of Sayyid Said up to the present times and due to its subordinate role, it has always been sidelined by what is happening at the metropole.

Geography and People

Unlike flat sandy Zanzibar, Pemba has a more diverse terrain that is hilly and fertile with some valleys, rivers and few fresh water pools. In the days of the Arab traders it was even referred to as ‘al Khuthera’ or ‘the Green Island’. Pemba’s infrastructure however is less developed than Unguja and less visited by tourists.
The culture is similar to that of Unguja including a 95% Muslim and Kiswahili-speaking population. As on Unguja or in Stone Town, respect the local customs by wearing clothing that covers both shoulders and knees.

Economy

Throughout much of the period when the sultans of Zanzibar held sway over the East African coast; it was Pemba, with its extensive clove plantations and agricultural base that provided the economic foundation for the archipelago’s dominance.

The Island’s tourism industry is small and low-key, and infrastructure is for the most part fairly basic, although this is slowly but steadily changing, with an ever-increasing number of up market hotels and more development on the way. There are several beautiful beaches in their natural state in and around the numerous inlets and coves. Cultivated crops range from rubber trees to cloves. Others include rice, coconut, bananas, and a lot of cassava. Unlike Unguja, Pemba has not been much cultivated, leaving beautiful views of green wild valleys leading down to the sea.

Getting There

There are everyday ferry departures to Pemba from Unguja and the fare goes for $30 per person for tourists. The ferries Sepideh and Talieh run a number of times a week for which tickets can be purchased at the ports on Pemba or Unguja. Larger ships such as the Mapinduzi that also go to Pemba but their schedules are irregular and unpredictable.
It is possible to take a dhow from Mombasa to Pemba because Kenyan law does permit tourists to travel in wooden boats. If you’re looking for a dhow ride, you may consider something shorter than the six to eight hour sail from Mombasa to Pemba.

Landing at Pemba is not quite the same experience as Unguja since there are fewer cars, people and bustle. There are several charter airlines that will fly to Pemba for a large group or may sell you a seat on a scheduled flight. Air Tanzania claims to fly to Pemba regularly, but the practice doesn’t match the claim. Although air travel is arguably quicker and more comfortable, it is more expensive, and for those who like adventure, the ferry trips are fun. Pemba has one airport located between Chake Chake and Mkoani that services charter flights but handles regularly flights to and from Pemba.